Kashgar - or "Kashi" in the local Uyghur language - is an archetypal slice of ancient Central Asia trading and intrigue close to China's border with Pakistan in the far South West of the country. Centered around an ancient Oasis, Kashgar for centuries has been the largest trading market in this enigmatic region, with traders from Xinjiang, Kazakstan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iran, Tibet, Mongolia and so on all making their way here for the huge outdoor market held here every Sunday next to the main Aidkah Mosque. This is an almost unpoliceable region - although the Chinese do try and control it, the reality is that with the massive, constantly eroding Pamir Mountains looming large close by, and with mountain passes reaching down into Kashgar from myriads of secret directions, no-one in the market, or their ancestors have ever possessed a pass­port and probably never will.

Essentially a time warp of the middle ages come to life, Kashgar is home to Yaks, Camels, Don­keys, Fat Tailed Sheep, herds of Goats and even fine Arab stallions and trained Eagles being traded here. Central Asia, and Xinjiang in particular is home to some of the worlds finest fruits - apricots, melons, peaches and apples, all sharing space with fresh walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, pistachios - it's all here. The best places to stay are the old consulates - Kashgar was briefly independent as the capital of East Turkistan early last century, supported by the Russians and the British as part of the "Great Game" - two massive empires both seeking control of Central Asia. The Seman Hotel (0998) 255 2129 is the old Russian Consul, while the Ge An Hotel (282 5929) is the old British Consulate. Both largely retain their period charm. Small, family run Uyghur restaurants predominate - this is highly Turkic influenced and not so Chinese - so wonderful salads, fruits, and of course lamb and kid goat kebabs with their fragrant, mouth watering aromas pouring off each street corner.

A great place to hang out is John's Information Café, with the Kashgar one being legendary, right on the Karakoram Highway trail and a cool hangout for backpackers "Doing Central Asia". Not only does John serve up some pretty good grub, he does backpacking staples such as banana pancakes and excellent coffees. More importantly, the cafes are centres for hiring drivers - either four wheeled drive Toyota Landcruisers, for which deals can be done with driver for the day, the week or even longer if you intend to get right out there, camels or even the odd "Kashgar taxi" - donkey & cart. Message boards for people trying to meet up, offers of sales of used bicycles, camping equipment or people looking for accompaniment for treks across to Nepal via Sichuan and Tibet all appear here. As do various swarthy looking ‘traders' who may appear with a mis­shapen lump of a bag from which they may produce ‘antiques', ‘cultural objects' (usually fake and / or badly made) and occasionally some real quality pieces - this writer bought a polished set of local agate stones for USD50, which when taken back to Hong Kong and strung there were subsequently valued at USD250 - and freshwater pearls from the alpine lakes around the Murzaga Mountain range, further south in Xinjiang. John's is conveniently located just across from the Ge An Hotel (former British Consultate) on Kashgar's only roundabout - you can't miss it. From here you can get anywhere you want to in the entire world. Finally, a Xinjiang drinking tip: The local Lou Lan Cabernet Sauvignon wine from Turpan goes great with kebabs, while "Hosh !" is Uyghur for "Cheers !" Enjoy !