Zhongdian is regard­ed, at least commercially by the Chinese, as being "Shan­gri-La". Known however locally as Gyeltang, the town itself is a rather uninspiring collection of white tiled buildings (there are two hotels on the main drag through of similar description, and a main 4 star "Zhongdian Hotel" that caters for travelers, otherwise there are some guest houses with English signs up welcoming travelers on the road out towards the monastery. Further out, in the opposite direction, a collection of rough hewn Tibetan farmhouses stand, and the families there will also on occasion take in guests, albeit unofficially. You'll be living with the Yaks and Horses, but who cares?

Zhongdian is elevated - you're at the northern end of Yunnan Proivince here, and you'll need to bring warm clothes and be aware you may get a little short of breath - the altitude here being about 3,000 metres above sea level and climbing.

The town itself is a bit of a dump to be frank, although there are some reasonable local restaurants about, and one or two that offer somewhat Chinesified Tibetan style dancing and singing. However, that's not really what you're here for. The Monastery, founded by the 5th Dali Lama, is in good condition and is still being restored, you can visit and even sit in on some of the monks tutorials in the main hall. Be discreet however, always move clockwise around the internal halls, and be quiet. Photography may be permitted - but ask first. There are some very old abbots here together with a growing number of young monks - the abbots will bless you if asked and guides are nor­mally available to show you around.

Otherwise, it's the sheer surrounding beauty of the country­side that inspires, mountains surround the Zhongdian valley and these stretch forever, leading on into Tibet and Northern Burma. The people here are ethnic Tibetans. Mostly farmers, eking out an existence for their families much as they have done for generations - homespun yak wool, yak butter tea, tsampa (roast barley) and an occasional bowl of imported rice and some local vegetables form the basic diet here, although yak meat, mutton and chicken are on sale in the stores.

Zhongdians hills, rivers, and the seasonal lake (fed by melt water, it disappears every winter) are a birdwatchers delight; yellow billed coughs, cranes, eagles and vultures not to men­tion various other Tibetan and migratory species (even Peli­cans) all make, for a time of year at least, Zhongdian their home.

There is an annual horse racing festival early June, which also coincides with the eventual appearance of the spring flowers - being this far North Zhongdian has a late spring and the en­tire area is carpeted with alpine species.

Part of getting to Shangri-La is about the journey - and getting to Zhongdian - whether this is Shangri-La or not - makes this one of China's best travel experiences. Why stop here? The road further on leads to Lhasa in the summertime.... CE