Harbin is the capital city of Heilongjiang Province, China’s most northerly, and has a distinctly Russian flavour. Lying on the massive Songhua River, Harbin changed from being little more than a sleepy fishing village at the beginning of the last century when white Russian jews, fleeing persecution in the Bolshevik uprising, descended upon Harbin for refuge in their thousands. Often members of wealthy Russian trading houses, they quickly built many houses, churches, restaurants and even hotels, more often than not in fine Russian splendor, many of which survive today. Harbin’s destiny as a major trading centre was sealed in the 1910’s with the Russian’s building a massive rail network, bringing goods from Russian down via Harbin, and disposal from there across China. This meant the latest fashions from Paris and Moscow came via Harbin first – and later to Shanghai, making Harbin at the time China s most glamorous city. However, the Japanese invasions of the 1940’ s and subsequent civil war that followed condemned Harbin to an icy backwater, further fueled by China’s breaking off with relations with Russia in the 1960’s. Only recently, with the recovery of the Russian economy, has money started to pour back into Harbin and the city re-discover it’s natural heritage of one of China’s most enigmatic cities.

It’s well worth coming here in the winter and spring time, up until end March, Harbin’s famed ice festival is on display – ice pagodas, huge buildings, all carved out of gigantic blocks of ice, and lit up with embedded neon tubes, are a must see highlight of any stay.

We prefer – in evening temperatures that can drop to -30 – the security of heated luxury in Harbin, and hotels we recommend are the Shangri-La (0451 8485 8888) and Gloria Plaza (0451 8463 8855) both on the banks of the frozen Songhua River.

Good shopping is to be had – with Russian minks, chocolates and other souveniers – along the main Zhong Yang Lu, a pedestrianised cobbled throughfare that highlights the best of Chinese / Russian quality products, and lined with classic Russian architecture. Bars ? There is a newly developed Bar Street area, just off the old canal, we liked the “Gorky Bar” – with Russian vodka (chill it by putting it in the snow outside) while the “Rock Hard Cafe” was swinging with floor show and burgers.

Harbin is a winter city, its best to get here from December to March – and is also the arrival point for the main Chinese ski resort of Yabuli – see city guides on the ChinaExpat website for details.

Wrap up warm, enjoy the scenery and down some vodka !